AE92 & AE82 Brake upgrade options....
#61
Posted 26 September 2005 - 03:14 PM
The front calipers off the st18x series bolts straight on with no mods except of course bending back the dust shield a little to clear the bigger discs, oh yeah plus 14" rims and 15" rims if you go the aus gt4 ones and series 2 celica
#62
Posted 26 September 2005 - 07:56 PM
3sfe, on Sep 26 2005, 03:09 PM, said:
The front calipers off the st18x series bolts straight on with no mods except of course bending back the dust shield a little to clear the bigger discs, oh yeah plus 14" rims and 15" rims if you go the aus gt4 ones and series 2 celica
I have long suspected they are the same caliper (same pad) but have never held the two side by side to compare.
#63
Posted 15 January 2006 - 07:43 PM
Reason I ask is I have ae92 gtz front discs and ae82 stock rear disks.
The pedal feels a bit squishy and generally has more travel than firmness.
While I've adapted, I'd much prefer to have the correct mastercylinder with the correct bias valve.
If the 82 and 92 rear discs are the same, I simply need an ae92gtz mastercylinder.
If they're not, what should I be using?
#64
Posted 16 January 2006 - 03:11 PM
Handbrake cables depend on whether hatch or seca.
Change to bias won't affect squishiness. Make sure you bleed brakes in order of rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver side. (longest fluid pipe to shortest fluid pipe.)
Did you have rear discs or drums originally ?
Only difference in master cylinder between rear drum and rear disc version is the size of the two springs under the big green nuts where two of the the pipes join.
And be prepared for lousy handbrake grip when parking facing downhill with disc rear end.
#65
Posted 16 January 2006 - 04:48 PM
So the master cyl is identical on the 92gtz and the stock 82 twinky?
The brakes have been bled, my only explaination for the squishyness is that the master cylinder has a narrower bore than what's required.
#66
Posted 16 January 2006 - 06:30 PM
p.s. You'd better put your location in your profile before the moderators get onto you. Cheers.
#67
Posted 27 February 2006 - 08:49 AM
thanks
#68
Posted 27 February 2006 - 09:16 AM
#69
Posted 27 February 2006 - 01:38 PM
all i remember was that they were from an sw20 mr2... but i went to repco and the guy reckons there is like 3 diferent front pads for sw20's...
#70
Posted 27 February 2006 - 03:23 PM
Dave: Did you try SW20 MR2 Turbo?
#71
Posted 27 February 2006 - 03:57 PM
#72
Posted 27 February 2006 - 05:58 PM
As I put in the FAQ
TWINPOT SUPERSTRUT CALIPER KIT ( MR2; SW20 )
PN 210E0036 (Protex brand)
available through Brabond Brakes (Penshurst, Sydney)
I've done two conversions now and completely stripped down each set to give them a good cleanout as there was quite a bit of grime built up inside the caliper piston bores.
When reassembling the calipers, I found all four calipers had oversized piston seals, presumably just from age. One piston in each caliper would slide easily and the other required brute force - despite both having seals that were oversized.
So I tracked down caliper kits (with some difficulty) and finally got some through Brabond.
NOTE: Brake shoes are PN DB1352
#73
Posted 27 February 2006 - 09:19 PM
that PN DB1352 ... is that a DBA part number? if not what brand is that?
#74
Posted 27 February 2006 - 10:09 PM
DB1352 is an identifier for the pads.
Any brake place or spare parts place should recognise the format and/or have a conversion for the brand(s) they sell. You decide what brand you want after you ask them what brands they carry.
#75
Posted 01 March 2006 - 01:36 PM
thanks Scorpion.
#76
Posted 02 March 2006 - 06:26 AM
Thanks anyway for the effort.
#77
Posted 22 March 2006 - 08:58 PM
Superstrut brake conversion onto ae93 sx.
Can i get Front discs for my SX which will bolt straight on that can be machined down to 262mm.
I know that i can get the celica discs which are 5 stud , but is there a 4 stud disc that can just be machined down to fit.
I would really appreciate the name of the car which they would have come off.
#78
Posted 22 March 2006 - 10:51 PM
If you can't interpret the catalogue on the DBA website ( www.dba.com.au ) why don't you give them a call and discuss it.
#79
Posted 23 March 2006 - 08:30 PM
I read the FAQ several times. What im asking is!
Is there a 4 stud disc that can be used for the superstrut conversion on my SX!
can i use The later series SX disc? OR is the only disc i can use the ST185 disc (i have to get the holes re drilled.)
I made a little picture
#80
Posted 24 March 2006 - 02:58 PM
I cant beleive how much money this is costing ... like around 500 bucks.
#81
Posted 25 March 2006 - 09:02 PM
If you intend keeping your car for a while it'll be worth it. The twinspot front brakes are a big improvement over all the AE82/92 series front brakes.
#82
Posted 31 March 2006 - 04:50 PM
I need the clip that holds the brake pad on the piston side of the caliper.
Without this my millions of dollars spent on brakes is useless.
#83
Posted 31 March 2006 - 06:10 PM
#84
Posted 02 April 2006 - 06:36 PM
Scorpion, on Mar 25 2006, 08:57 PM, said:
If you intend keeping your car for a while it'll be worth it. The twinspot front brakes are a big improvement over all the AE82/92 series front brakes.
im using the sx seires 2 discs... its not the outer edge it close to.. its the inner edge...
i had major issues today in changing front pads...
ill tell the story in point form!
.................................................
well i ordered the pads last week.
db1357 like in the faq section.
and when i get there to pick em up
it says db1347
im like its wrong
and the chick goes ... nah its just coz these ones are ultimate, and you wanted advanced... they dont make db1357 in advanced so i had to get these instead
they didnt even call me to let me know
so i was like 130 bucks poorer after i bought them, instead of the normal 60
i took em with a bad feeling
so this morning i pull my brakes apart
to see that they are indeed wrong
i went back to repco and they had a bit of a cry
but gave me the ones i asked for
so i went home and fitted them
so i put them in, and the passenger side caliper wont slide out.. the 2 slide bolts are seized
managed to get the pads in anyway
but i took it for a drive
and the left side was braking on its own
so that caliper needs a rebuild for sure
so i had to pull it apart again and put the old pads back in
just so its drivable
and i dont wear the new pads out for nothing
so all up i pulled it apart and put it back together 3 times... all for nothin
coz now its the same as it was this morning
but worse coz now there is air in the system
im pretty sure the caliper needs a rebuild... so more dam money. stupid brakes.
end of crap story.
#86
Posted 03 April 2006 - 06:25 PM
I think they did it on the cheap for me.
#87
Posted 04 April 2006 - 07:19 PM
I'm just thinkin it could be the super strut ones.
If i posted a pic would it be possible someone could mention what brakes i had?
Thanx
Adrian
#88
Posted 05 April 2006 - 12:31 AM
Read the FAQ on brake upgrades and measure the diameter of your discs.
From memory, the Twincam brakes are 243mm - bigger than S1 AE92 SX. 256mm is diameter of S2 AE92 SX and GZE front discs. Local 101s came with single pot calipers - imports with superstruts are twinpots.
#89
Posted 08 April 2006 - 03:51 PM
I have recoed superstrut calipers.
this is what i did:
fitted all the pads and caliper properly
Undid the bleed valve on the back of caliper about a turn
got a bleeding tube from supercheap
attached the bleeding tube and repeatedyly pumped my brakes untill the fluid got to the minimum level.
Then poured more fluid in.
kept pumping and got the pedal got tight.
Then as soon as i turned the ignition on and tried the brake it goes sloppy.
So im f##ked my brakes dont work.
#90
Posted 08 April 2006 - 04:09 PM
The best way to do it if you are by yaself is to pump the breaks first until they get hard. Then go to the wheel that has the longest brakeline (normally passenger rear) and put the tube on it but put the tube into a CLEAN jar that is half full of brake fluid, (this will allow the air to be pushed out and fluid to go back in. Pump it a few times and screw the bleeder back in. Check your fluid level. Now go to the Drivers side rear then to the passenger front and then onto the drivers front. It will go a little bit softer from the brake booster recieving power.
Another way to do it if you are by yaself is:
1. Get 4 jars (with 4 bleed tubes connected to your brakes) and half fill them with brake fluid.
2. Undo your bleed valves and give your brakes a good pump (make sure to top up your fluid).
3. Do all the valves back up and see how that goes.
If you have someone with you:
1. Pump your brakes a few times to get them hard.
2. hold your foot down on the brakes and get ur mate to release the bleed valve, (the pedal will fall) get your mate to tighten it back up once the fluid stops comin out, repeat this about 4 to times to each brake or until you are happy with the result
If this is too complicated tell me as i didnt wanna be here all day and i will explain it in msn.
3.
This post has been edited by Trev084: 08 April 2006 - 04:10 PM

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