[Talasas]

There's a good chance they are but I've never seen inside the CAS on a DLI GZE so I can't say for sure.

[TERRA Operative]

Are the heads the same? If so, they should be identical. Meh it's only a few bucks. I'll go find out in the next week or so and report back.

Ok, according to Toyota, the seals are exactly the same between the 4AGE and 4AGZE, irrespective of weather they are distributor or coilpack ignition.

This post has been edited by TERRA Operative: 28 September 2007 - 01:30 AM

[TERRA Operative]

Ok, I have just completed this on my 4AGZE. I can confirm that the procedure is exactly the same for the coilpack ignition as it is for the distributor.

As for parts, the inner seal ISN'T a U-seal. That's something totally different (a seal made up of two U shaped pieces that fit over the shaft from opposite sides). It's actually called a 'plain encased seal' according to the invoice.
Go to CBC Bearings, and ask for part no. TC12379VI. That's the inner seal in the high temperature version (it's made of Viton and is red in colour). It cost me $15.25 all up.
While you're there, also ask for part no. BS217. That's the outer O-ring and will cost half the price of the Toyota item (CBC quoted $3.00 a piece).

I hope that helps.

[BJ]

TERRA Operative, on Sep 28 2007, 05:23 PM, said:

Ok, I have just completed this on my 4AGZE. I can confirm that the procedure is exactly the same for the coilpack ignition as it is for the distributor.

As for parts, the inner seal ISN'T a U-seal. That's something totally different (a seal made up of two U shaped pieces that fit over the shaft from opposite sides). It's actually called a 'plain encased seal' according to the invoice.
Go to CBC Bearings, and ask for part no. TC12379VI. That's the inner seal in the high temperature version (it's made of Viton and is red in colour). It cost me $15.25 all up.
While you're there, also ask for part no. BS217. That's the outer O-ring and will cost half the price of the Toyota item (CBC quoted $3.00 a piece).

I hope that helps.

What a legend, this is how all info should be given-straight to the point. Just go "here" and ask for "this" and pay your moolah. Saved me a lot of stuffing about. Thanks mate

[GTi Gaz]

Another happy customer here, changed the dizzy seal and o-ring today without too much hassle. My local bearing trader was able to supply the seal and o-ring in viton so they should last for quite some time!

One thing I will say is don't attempt this if you don't have access to a press, I couldn't see any other way of getting the gear off the dizzy shaft. Luckily for me (I don't own a press) I found a old school car mechanic working on a Saturday afternoon and he pressed it off for free because he was a top bloke. Getting the gear back on was much easier, I used a long 11mm socket, some blocks of wood and a hammer to get it back on. I will admit however this method is not prefect and although I lined the gear up with my markings at the start by the time I finished knocking it on it was maybe 0.5-1mm out anti-clockwise. So to compensate I just turned the dizzy housing relative to the engine block so that the shaft still lined up with my markings on the dizzy and bolted it down again.

Car started and ran just like it should so I'm assuming all is well!

Thanks Talasas, without this guide I would never have attempted to fix the oil leak and probably just put up with it or payed some "crazy mechanic" to fix it.

Edit: When it came time to buy the seal TERRA advised me to ask for a 10x20x7TC seal made from VITON and I had no idea what that code meant but the bearing place guy sure did so I think that code must be a universal part code or something similar. You can also get the O-Ring in viton or normal rubber so for the extra couple of bucks I went viton to match the seal.

This post has been edited by GTi Gaz: 28 February 2009 - 11:46 PM

[Sodium]

Replaced my distribuitor oil seal on the weekend, great write up it really helped a lot!!!
Had to drill out the pin holding on the distribuitor gear on and replaced it with a roll pin

Does anyone know the CBC part no for dust seal for the distribuitor Cap?

[TERRA Operative]

GTi Gaz, on Feb 28 2009, 08:33 PM, said:

Edit: When it came time to buy the seal TERRA advised me to ask for a 10x20x7TC seal made from VITON and I had no idea what that code meant but the bearing place guy sure did so I think that code must be a universal part code or something similar.

10mm shaft size, 20mm outside diameter, 7mm thick, TC is the oil seal type.

[nknoxy12]

ill get the part number for the seals tomorrow... then inner u seal can be a pain to remove as the gear needs to be pulled of with a press...

and cause it is press fit on the gear is known to slipping and throwing your timing out which will need in turn to get a new dizzy housing costing $450 or a complete dizzy with everything for $1000 from toyota....

if you see oil from inside the dizzy its the inner seal that need replacing and it is then reconmended that the outer o ring be changed for precaution

[Sodium]

Talasas, on Aug 5 2006, 12:52 AM, said:

STEP 3: Set piston 1 to TDC and mark reference points

THIS STEP IS IMPORTANT. Set cylinder 1 to Top Dead Centre (TDC) on the compression stroke. This helps in case something happens while the dizzy is out (like you roll the car while it's in gear, it can happen). Rotate the crankshaft clockwise with a spanner until the timing notch on the crank pulley lines up with the "0" on the timing cover. This means that cyl 1 is at TDC. BUT, there are two points where cyl 1 is at TDC, one is on the exhaust stroke, and one on the compression stroke. The difference between these two stages is one has ignition (on the compression stroke) and one does not (exhaust stroke).

How to tell the difference? When the engine is at TDC Compression Stroke, the rotor arm on the dizzy will be pointing toward the #1 electrode on the dizzy cap. (Numbers are marked on top of the cap). When cyl 1 is at TDC on the exhaust stroke the arm will be pointing somewhere else completely. Generally don't expect it to point direct at the electrode as your base timing will mean it's usually pointing a little bit to one side of it.

If you've done this and for some reason you do throw out the crank, you'll need to spin round the crank until you find Cyl 1 TDC Compression again. You'll also have to take off the cam covers or just use trial and error. Best to seek aid on the forum at this stage. Prevention is better than cure.

To be able to reassemble everything you'll need two main sets of reference points.

1) DIZZY WITH RESPECT TO HEAD
Mark the distributor where it meets the head (mark both the dizzy and the head) in a couple of places. This is to help you put it back exactly where it was once you are done. Again if you forget this you will have to set the timing all over again. I chose to mark it on the top and on either side where the dizzy retaining bolts are (the ones you undo to set the timing). This way you'll know if it's crooked.

2) SHAFT WITH RESPECT TO DIZZY
Repeat this for the inside, except this time you will be marking the shaft's position with respect to the dizzy housing. This is the only way to ensure that the gear on the shaft goes back onto the correct tooth otherwise your timing will be way off.

PIC 4: Marking reference points

I am actually wondering if anyone knows the part number for the O ring that goes in the groove on the above picture where the word "and" is written in red.
I had a "O" ring there but it fell into a million bits a while ago and would like to replace it now I have replaced the oil seal inside the distribuitor.
Cheers

[nknoxy12]

The o ring your talking about is known as the dzzy dust shield the product code is

TO-1912715021 is cost me a total $9.20 from LANDER toyota phone number is 02 8822 4555 www.lander.com.au

The actaul O ring that is on the other end is lsited below as i read it on the reciept:

T90099 14091 b15h7 0 ringdisthsng cost me $6.70 from windsor toyota 02 4587 6060 www.wintoy.com.au


the inner U seal is not a toyota item and has to be bought from a specialised bearing and seal place or you can buy a new dizzy housing which you get the shafts, housing, gear and u seal all assembled for $450 from your nearest toyota parts reatailer

hope this helps

[Sodium]

nknoxy12, on Mar 17 2009, 12:06 PM, said:

The o ring your talking about is known as the dzzy dust shield the product code is

TO-1912715021 is cost me a total $9.20 from LANDER toyota phone number is 02 8822 4555 www.lander.com.au

The actaul O ring that is on the other end is lsited below as i read it on the reciept:

T90099 14091 b15h7 0 ringdisthsng cost me $6.70 from windsor toyota 02 4587 6060 www.wintoy.com.au


the inner U seal is not a toyota item and has to be bought from a specialised bearing and seal place or you can buy a new dizzy housing which you get the shafts, housing, gear and u seal all assembled for $450 from your nearest toyota parts reatailer

hope this helps

Thanks nknoxy12,

I might just go to toyota and get one with that part number.

Does anyone know the CBC part number as this would be much cheeper and easier for me?

Cheers

[TERRA Operative]

nknoxy12, on Mar 17 2009, 12:36 PM, said:

The o ring your talking about is known as the dzzy dust shield the product code is

TO-1912715021 is cost me a total $9.20 from LANDER toyota phone number is 02 8822 4555 www.lander.com.au

The actaul O ring that is on the other end is lsited below as i read it on the reciept:

T90099 14091 b15h7 0 ringdisthsng cost me $6.70 from windsor toyota 02 4587 6060 www.wintoy.com.au


the inner U seal is not a toyota item and has to be bought from a specialised bearing and seal place or you can buy a new dizzy housing which you get the shafts, housing, gear and u seal all assembled for $450 from your nearest toyota parts reatailer

hope this helps

7 posts up....

[julztwincam]

Is this the same for an AE92 with 4age. Mine leaking too. Top write up also, looks like even my pee brain should be able to follow it.

[Mystik]

julztwincam, on Apr 8 2009, 01:36 PM, said:

Is this the same for an AE92 with 4age. Mine leaking too. Top write up also, looks like even my pee brain should be able to follow it.

[harris]

would this be the same procedure for ST 20v? i am having leaks too

[Danny40]

Has anyone done this on a bigport?
Got my dizzy out and half apart before realizing it's completely different to the one in the guide.

From what I can gather, you don't have to pull out the sensors etc (looks like the shaft will go straight past it)
But the driven gear has some sort of pin through it. Is it something that'll just punch out?

[TERRA Operative]

Here's how to do the bigport.

www.google.com














http://www.aeu86.org/viewtopic/diy-4age-di...rebuild_/t/5379

This post has been edited by TERRA Operative: 20 July 2009 - 06:20 PM

[Danny40]

Thanks.

[TERRA Operative]

No worries.



Oh, you can get a small bearing puller from Trade Tools or the like for pretty cheap. Mine cost about $40, it's actually for electric motor bearings, but it's the perfect size for distributors as well as ball joints etc.

[R1173]

Thanx for the great write up. Clear step-by-step instructions, helped me out a treat.

I've just done the dizzy seal & O ring. I got the inner seal for $4.75 & the O ring for nothing (as they were unsure of the size) form Bearing Wholesalers in West Melb.

Cheers,

Hayden.

[dorifto]

Hey Hayden,

Would you have a part no. by any chance? I want to do my inner O ring seal.

cheers

[TERRA Operative]

The part numbers are all in this thread, if you just read back.....