[WhiteSX]

thought i write up a FAQ on how to do this.

There are 3 ways to do this.

1. Cover it in dry ice, then crack and remove.

2. spray kero/petrol and let soak in and then remove.

3. the method i used which is explained below;


you will need;

a heat device (heat gun, butane torch etc.)
a blunt chisel (wont scratch as much)
a spatula
wax and grease remover
a few rags
a container
face mask (optional)



heat sound deadening with butane torch/heat gun working small patches (i found doing small areas easier), then remove with either spatula or chiesel. make sure doors and hatch are open cause this stuff stinks and you dont want to breathe it in



once all removed it will look like this



then clean with wax and grease remover to remove excess suff, and you get this. you can cover the holes with fibregalss tape stuff or bog its up to you.



and this is what you haved removed



once done you can cover it back up with carpet, or prime and paint.

Weight Reductions

Hatch interior panels - to be weighed (tbw)
tape player and speakers - someone weight these for me as i threw them out
all carpets incl - foot rest, under rear seat and boot - tbw
rear seats - tbw
passenger seat - tbw
all seatbelt incl stalks - tbw
sound deadening - hatch (either side of wheel well) - 2kg
sound deadening - under rear seating - 3kg
sound deadening - rear foot wells - to be removed
sound deadening - front foot wells - to be removed
sound deadening - firewall - may be removed

will be updated as i complete things

[fms01]

Nice, comes up a lot cleaner that I thought it would.
How long did it take to do that area and how much weight in the tub?

Cheers,
Julian

[WhiteSX]

took about 2-3 hrs since its winter and the stuff cools real quick, did both sides. will weight it up tomorrow and let you know.

[TERRA Operative]

In my AE92, most of the thick stuff (in footwells etc.) just came up with a Stanley scraper/prybar (the one with the convenient screwdriver bit on the end)... Just came off in big chunks.

I'll have to get the heat gun on the thinner bits in the boot area though.

[mattysshop]

i pulled about 11kg's out of my floor

that was just a set of bathroom scales i used a heat gun from supercheap at around $30 safer than a blow torch i think but either way works

i had about 3 full shopping bags.. the thicker stuff is in the front footwells.. then gets thinner as it gets furthur back..

This post has been edited by mattysshop: 14 July 2007 - 08:13 AM

[4AG-ESX]

11kg, i wonder how they got the TTA AE92 FXGT race cars down to 800kg.

Interior parts can’t be the rest besides the fact they only got 2 doors,

Wonder how heavy the rear and front left seat are, The door trims and plastic boot parts with center console and glove box with carpet is?

Could not imagine it being more then 50kg

I suppose with all the heater and air parts taken out as well.
Would be interesting for someone to weigh all that crap and jot it down on a list.
EG:
Floor sound deadening - 10-12kg
Door trims ?
Floor Carpet ?
Interior Boot plastics and pasel tray ?
Stock sterio and speakers ?
Air con and heater unit ?
Center console and glove box ?
Rear and front left seats ?

ECT.


would be interesting

[WhiteSX]

i will try to weight all the parts with a set of bathroom scales and post in here.

even tho all of the dash is going back in.

my goal it to try and get the whole car to under 1000kg

[.44 caliber]

all i can say is nice work and its gonna be LOUD! now group buy on earplugs anyone??

[Talasas]

Yeah I just pulled all the rear trim out of mine yesterday (seats, plastics the lot) and even that made it way more loud than it used to be. I can really hear the Walbro buzzing away back there and my relatively quiet exhaust is now quite loud inside.

From my experience however, I think there's a bit of myth about stripping things out to save weight, the rear seats for instance weigh bugger all. The sound deadening on the other hand my add up to a fair bit. I'd say to get more out you need to cut out the excess metal that is all over the place. Of course you wouldn't do that unless you had extra bracing to be sure.

Here's my estimates:

Floor sound deadening - 10-12kg
Door trims = 500g each
Floor Carpet = 2 kg tops
Interior Boot plastics and parcel tray = 2 kg total (I'll weigh them tomorrow)
Stock stereo and speakers = original speakers with brackets maybe weigh 1kg each
Air con and heater unit = <not sure> Compressor weighs approx 6 kg
Center console and glove box = 1 kg
Rear seats = 5 kg for the whole assembly (guess - will weigh tomorrow)
Passenger seat = ~12 kg (have some other seats I can weigh)

So you aren't looking at the HUGE saving everyone would believe, that's roughly 30 kg without taking out the AC and you've stripped the heck out of the interior. I'd rather leave on for a road car that's for sure, way too noisy without.

[WhiteSX]

Went and bought a Ozito 2000W heat gun for $35 and its way quicker than the butane torch i had and less fumes. Was thinking about the dry ice still but thought i'd spend my money on something that could be re-used.

Still trying to get my hands on a set of bathroom scales, the one i had was elec with dead batteries.

[4AG-ESX]

Wouldn’t it be cheaper to get new batteries?

[gattfxgt]

4AG-ESX, on Jul 14 2007, 01:12 PM, said:

11kg, i wonder how they got the TTA AE92 FXGT race cars down to 800kg.

Interior parts can’t be the rest besides the fact they only got 2 doors,

Wonder how heavy the rear and front left seat are, The door trims and plastic boot parts with centre console and glove box with carpet is?

Could not imagine it being more then 50kg

I suppose with all the heater and air parts taken out as well.
Would be interesting for someone to weigh all that crap and jot it down on a list.
EG:
Floor sound deadening - 10-12kg
Door trims ?
Floor Carpet ?
Interior Boot plastics and pasel tray ?
Stock stereo and speakers ?
Air con and heater unit ?
Centre console and glove box ?
Rear and front left seats ?

ECT.
would be interesting

I'm pretty sure the AE92 race cars ran light weight body panels, have lifted the tail gate and it weighed about 2 thirds of a normal gate, my mate bought one years ago. Same goes with the doors not sure about the front panels. I'm also pretty sure they ran perspex side windows so there would be a bit of a weight saving there. Much more serious a race car than the AE82's unfortunately

[kAm]

WhiteSX, on Jul 16 2007, 02:11 PM, said:

Was thinking about the dry ice still but thought i'd spend my money on something that could be re-used.

you can reuse the small bits and pieces to make dry ice bombs

[mattysshop]

just done some more..

Wax and grease remover.. like the cheap supercheap stuff.. works better than thinners!! and leaves the under coat paint still! (thinners stripps to beare metal lol!)

most of the weight is saved on my car from

- removing pwr steer and ac brackets off engine 3.5kg
- no a/c or pwr steer in the car
- rear seats removed 2kg
- rear seat belts and bolts 2.5kg
- rear seat brackets 1kg
- spare tyre/jack/tool kit 12kg
- lighter wheels - 6.5 kg (had 15" steel rims, swapped with 15x6.5" enkie wheels)
- momo 3 spoke 'drift look' steering wheel (in my ae86 drift parts bin stock one about 3 times as heavy)
- removal of all non essential hoses/lines/solenoides under engine bay (all the ac/steer s##t was still in there)
- removal rear wiper assey/motor 1.5kg

29KG - not including the 11-12kg's of deadner i stripped out.. so total

40kg

plenty more to come!!

sounds silly.. but i must have my tunes in.. so the cd player that came with the car stays.. but is limited to a set of 6x9's in the rear only.. 6x9s still sound pretty good on thier own

on a slightly more realistic note.. i would only do this if you really wanted to try and get every ounce out of your car.. realisticly.. your car would prolly perform just as good if you ran 98 octane with a little advanced timing in your motor.. and you left all this stuff in..

it's not a really big improvment.. it kinda feels like when you drive for ages with a mate.. then you drop them off etc and you drive away and you think.. gees it goes just that little bit better when you don't have your mate in the car!!

This post has been edited by mattysshop: 23 July 2007 - 07:57 AM

[WhiteSX]

4AG-ESX, on Jul 16 2007, 07:46 PM, said:

Wouldn’t it be cheaper to get new batteries?

umm not if i borrow the scales

gattfxgt, on Jul 16 2007, 08:10 PM, said:

I'm pretty sure the AE92 race cars ran light weight body panels, have lifted the tail gate and it weighed about 2 thirds of a normal gate, my mate bought one years ago. Same goes with the doors not sure about the front panels. I'm also pretty sure they ran perspex side windows so there would be a bit of a weight saving there. Much more serious a race car than the AE82's unfortunately

also consider that the ae92 race cars were 2 doors plenty of weight saved there. would be nice if i could go full fibreglass replacement panels(frp) for the front end. if my car get mod plated as a 2 seater can i run perspex rear windows??

anyway orig post will be updated as i complete things

[gattfxgt]

WhiteSX, on Jul 17 2007, 03:42 PM, said:

umm not if i borrow the scales
also consider that the ae92 race cars were 2 doors plenty of weight saved there. would be nice if i could go full fibreglass replacement panels(frp) for the front end. if my car get mod plated as a 2 seater can i run perspex rear windows??

anyway orig post will be updated as i complete things

[gattfxgt]

Sorry. I would'nt know but I can't see why not. I've seen registered rally cars with them.

[KRaZi 101]

go to jenny craig.. lose some weight fat boi

i joooke lol


nice write up btw.. when i can be bothered i mite rip up the flooring in my levin and try this.. ill take fotos if i do

This post has been edited by KRiSHY: 18 July 2007 - 05:03 PM

[EverAE82]

ill just post up my experience with this. i stripped out my ae82 to check the condition of my floorboards. once i had the carpetting off i realized some of my sound dedaning was already loose, and i had toyed with the idea of removing it in the past, so i decided "when in rome" and stripped it out. My sound dedaning was very easy to remove, im not sure if it was the Canadian climate (can get down to -20C in the winter when i did this in my garage) but i was able to remove big chunks of the material with my bare hands (although small sections needed a little bump with a hammer). overall if you don't mind the noise, you do save some decent weight.

the front seats i noticed are fairly heavy, so a lightweight bucket would be a good weight saving. the rear seat doesnt weigh much at all, as well as the carpet, door trims, plastic mouldings, etc. if you really want to lose the minimal weight removing those things, your probably better off skipping your next trip to a fast food joint, and/or hitting up the bathroom before getting in the car. center console weighs next to nothing as well.

spare tire/jack will save good weight. i took the ps pump and the ac and all the brackets off my new engine, and they do weigh a fair bit, so if your cool with having an already noisy car, then settle for rolling your windows down and gaining some muscle mass in your arms.

my hood's bracing was all seperating and rusting from the shell so i decided to gut out the bracing and just weld up the gaps since the extra metal wasnt doing any good anyway. its not quite finished yet but it seems like a decent way to shed a few.

[Danny40]

I've done this on three cars in the last three years.. For most of that I used a heat gun and a blunt chisel, but doing the third car I found that a hammer and chisel can be very effective, and often easier than the heat gun - and it probably scratches the floor less than using the heat gun too
I've heard of alot of people using an air chisel too
But whichever way you do it, it is well worth it.. there's alot of weight in the sound deadening

gattfxgt, on Jul 16 2007, 08:10 PM, said:

I'm pretty sure the AE92 race cars ran light weight body panels, have lifted the tail gate and it weighed about 2 thirds of a normal gate, my mate bought one years ago. Same goes with the doors not sure about the front panels. I'm also pretty sure they ran perspex side windows so there would be a bit of a weight saving there. Much more serious a race car than the AE82's unfortunately

I wouldn't know if it's what the old circuit cars did, but the overall difference in weight when you replace all of the steel panels with fibreglass panels is huge. Just picking up a steel door and a fibreglass door you can notice a huge difference
Or another thing we do is skin the steel panels (mainly with doors, but could be done with the hatch and I guess the bonnet if you were desperate) - cut away most of the door so it is just the outer skin
But as I said I don't know what they did
Removing all of the road car bits is effective.. They may only seem like they save a little bit of weight, and probably wouldn't be worth it for a road car, but it all does add up.. there's alot you can take out of them when making them a race car, they would have done everything they could to get it down i guess

[4AG-ESX]

Wonder how good it would be to make fiberglass ( cheaper then carbon fiber ) rear hatch. Front fenders and bonnet.
And replacing the rear hatch glass with a sort of plastic like perspecs, I think the guy at work said it was noltex or something like that, douse not scratch easy like perspecs and is stronger.

[Danny40]

4AG-ESX, on Jul 21 2007, 05:54 PM, said:

Wonder how good it would be to make fiberglass ( cheaper then carbon fiber ) rear hatch. Front fenders and bonnet.
And replacing the rear hatch glass with a sort of plastic like perspecs, I think the guy at work said it was noltex or something like that, douse not scratch easy like perspecs and is stronger.

I can vouch for the front guards and bonnet making a fair bit of weight difference
Only thing is you would have to make up bonnet pins, which would mean anyone could come along and open your bonnet unless you padlocked it or something.. And no more sitting on the bonnet lol

I haven't got a glass rear hatch, but knowing how heavy the steel one is there would be a huge reduction with a glass hatch.. means even less weight over the rear wheels haha

And as an added bonus, fibreglass panels means no nasty dents in an accident

[kAm]

also means fibre glass repair kit ftw
im thinking if i should strip out my levin i might even try the dry ice methed if i can find a place that supplies some lol

[mattysshop]

i'll go to the local weigh bridge and weigh my rolla.. see if i can get it under 1000kg's!!!

[the Db king]

im in the process of doin this in my ke70 project, (caus im out of funds at the moment and am doin stuff that wont cost me)
but the reason im doin this is caus the entire inside will be covered in dynomat.

ive got all of it in a bucket, ill weigh it once ive got it all out, the crap on the firewall is up to 5mm thick in places

[JayMan]

get rid of the motor to the rear wiper and bog up the whole...
rip out any of the old cabling that you can..
replace quarter windows and any others you can with perspex

umm drop the exhaust lol theres a few kgs
any cosmetics on the car.. eg side skirts and front lips you can get rid of them if they dont help aerodynamics?

[Casey-G]

Just adding my two cents to this thread.


I used liquid nitrogen to remove my tar sound deadener.

With two people it took probably 20 mins with a completely stripped interior.


removed approx 25-30kgs

This post has been edited by Casey-G: 12 August 2009 - 01:21 AM

[Mark K]

I removed my sub box and amp.
20kg reduction

Thinking of taking out my parcel tray all together now. Its made from 20mm thick mdf and probably weighs a fair bit with 2 6x9s in there

[nknoxy12]

let me give you a hint

get 2 3.5kg or a 5kg co2 fire extinguisher and use that...... same s##t we use liquid nitrogen to fill them at work...

also for some pub ammo if you ever have a 6 pack and its a bit hot hit it for a couple of second with a co2 extinguisher and woolah ICE COLD!!!

[Casey-G]

nknoxy12, on Aug 20 2009, 11:18 PM, said:

let me give you a hint

get 2 3.5kg or a 5kg co2 fire extinguisher and use that...... same s##t we use liquid nitrogen to fill them at work...

also for some pub ammo if you ever have a 6 pack and its a bit hot hit it for a couple of second with a co2 extinguisher and woolah ICE COLD!!!

But liquid nitrogen and CO2 are two completely different substances, you cant possibly say there the same.


Carbon Dioxide: CO2
Nitrogen: N

Foundation Chemistry


or have i missed a point here or something?