[orangeLJ]

All our racecars have always run oil pressure gauges, can be a pretty good indicator of things going amiss, dont want to come on the straight and hit full noise if you know the oil pressure has dropped or gone off the scale!

can save a few engines that way.

Are you driving this around at the moment? or do you have a daily other then the AW11?

This post has been edited by orangeLJ: 13 August 2009 - 10:41 AM

[trdee]

The AW11 is my daily. Was always planning to buy a daily/tow car like a 1JZ cressida or a JZX100 chaser next year and then start the final things to turn the AW11 into a track/weekend only car.... but then I decided to put a GZE in. Was supposed to be back on the road and running as if nothing happened inside of a week. Fail

I dont really need the AW11 to be drivable atm anyways as I usually catch the bus to uni. Although my dad is currently looking at buying a daily, which would then also be used as my daily/parts hauler till I buy my lovely chaser next year Oh and I'm getting withdrawals from not driving it, even though I don't really need to drive the car much when I'm at uni, I still end up driving it around most days. It's just too full of awesome to leave alone.

and no I'm not driving it till i get that boiling coolant issue/wiring sorted

This post has been edited by trdee: 13 August 2009 - 11:06 AM

[orangeLJ]

want a seca?

Fairy muff, sounds like you have it all planned!

good luck getting it sorted, should be good fun once its all up to scratch!

[trdee]

skid vids shall be posted once it's running sweet.

as for the seca; im currently negotiating the exchange of my ITB kit for one

[trdee]

Worked on the car again last night with an auto electrician friend. Starter relay issue was the neutral start switch. Even though the car is using a manual engine loom and ecu, the neutral start switch wires still need to be bridged on the body loom. once we did this the car cranked from the key immediately. I called Dave up about this and he said he had bridged it on the engine loom side before, which is why we ran into this problem now. It's always the little things you forget about lol.

We then set to work searching for the short circuit which was killing the AM2 fuse. After a while we found that the insulation on one of the wires on the engine loom had been worn through and was shorting against the firewall. Fixed this up and that is now sweet.

the thermos didnt seem to be working because something funky is going on with the cooling system. We tested the thermostat and it was working, got a new rad cap, tested the thermatic switch and it's working too. Strangely, the thermos then started to work when the car was idling, however taking it for a decent drive would get it overheating, and the thermos werent switching on. Also, when the car started to overheat I noticed that the radiator inlet was HOT but the outlet was stone cold. Now if the car is overheating then the water out of the radiator shouldnt be that cold yeah? There are still none of the main signs of BHG (no misfiring/white smoke/milkshake etc) So I'm guessing I have at least a partially blocked radiator/cooling system.

Finally, the auto elec dude reckoned that the shorting wire had killed my gauges in the car and that swapping the clusters should fix it. it didnt, so there is something else there.... but we ran out of time.

So yeah. next steps are compression test (just to be 100%) and then pressure test the rad.

[trdee]

FFFFUUUUUU

[Blue Hornet]

What is it it looks like a bannana

[Casey-G]

You've been making milkshakes with the cams?


bummer man, have you found the cause?

[trdee]

generally speaking this is the sign of a BHG.

in other words; i just got f##ked

[Danny40]

Oh that sucks

Could be condensation though? Is it on the dipstick?

[trdee]

im seeing small bubbles starting to form.

need a compression/leakdown test done to be sure

[Blue Hornet]

Ok for those who dont know what it is ill take a stab at it .It looks like white sludge on you oil cap which means the engine is probably full of sludge which, explains you bubble/boil problem water in the oil ..........................................grabs chin hair and says damm

[Casey-G]

[/GZE]

[trdee]

Casey-G, on Aug 18 2009, 12:18 AM, said:

[/GZE]

hardly. it will be back bigger and better..... eventually

[Casey-G]

[GTE] ?




hahaha nah, ever thought about maybe upping the compression if its the head gasket that's gone, then maybe having a high comp supercharged gze?

possible profit??

[GOT-20V]

Does this have any kind of warranty from the half cut place?

[trdee]

ichiban does 1 month warranty. have had the halfcut since 15/07. fail

[Hiro Protagonist]

Do a Joshtix and put a 3SGTE in...

[Casey-G]

I know when i bought my cut through rolin auto imports, for the warranty to be of any use it needed a full service including replacement of head gasket, timing belt, oil filter,coolant,ect. ect by a fully qualified mechanic.


i would assume ichiban would have a similar policy.

Quote

Do a Joshtix and put a 3SGTE in...

As soon as my gte dies i will be doing this. give or take 4-5 years

This post has been edited by Casey-G: 18 August 2009 - 01:27 PM

[Blue_stivo]

yep, warranty pretty much usually only covers for non starters.

this thing started and ran, then ran hot... in most cases just running it hot would void the warranty.

[trdee]

yep there is no point going back to ichiban because they will say "how do you know it has a blown HG" and I will say "cos it's overheating" and they will then point to the "if the engine overheats, warranty is void" clause and ill be like

No 3S-GTE. Being a member on ozcelica has taught me not to like them, they're ghey.

[orangeLJ]

How good are you on the tools and how much cash can you rake up at the moment?

I'll shoot you a PM.

[Hiro Protagonist]

trdee, on Aug 18 2009, 03:20 PM, said:

Big yes for the 3S-GTE. Being a member on ozcelica has taught me to like them, they're ghey.

Fixed

[ROLANV]

ive got s standard HG if that turns out to be the problem.

sucks when u buy an engine and it ends in massive fail.

[trdee]

yes, yes it does ROLANV.

no hiro, 3SGTE's are definately ghey. just try working on one. Besides if I were to swap in something other than a 4A it would inevitably be a 2ZZ

should I just get a stock HG or get something uprated?

p.s orangeLJ I replied your pm

This post has been edited by trdee: 18 August 2009 - 04:35 PM

[Hiro Protagonist]

trdee, on Aug 18 2009, 04:34 PM, said:

no hiro, 3SGTE's are definately ghey. just try working on one.

Compared to this GZE, which has just been a bucket of fun and an absolute breeze

[trdee]

Hiro Protagonist, on Aug 18 2009, 04:39 PM, said:

Compared to this GZE, which has just been a bucket of fun and an absolute breeze

touche.

try changing a 3S timing belt in a celica though. seriously it's even worse than trying to do it in an AW11... and that's saying something!!!

not to mention they are unreliable pieces of poo. yes i know i know........

[trdee]

Thinking about the HG. I will go arp studs and do a full head reco. Also, should I go the extra and get a cometic mls gasket or is whatever is included in the vrs kit good enough? (probs something from acl)

future plans include lots of boostage so yeah..

[Hiro Protagonist]

trdee, on Aug 18 2009, 05:12 PM, said:

touche.

try changing a 3S timing belt in a celica though. seriously it's even worse than trying to do it in an AW11... and that's saying something!!!

not to mention they are unreliable pieces of poo. yes i know i know........

Speaking of which, got to get the belt done on the ST162 soon, although I think that GenI ones might be a bit easier (taken a squiz and it looks no harder than normal, just they have the oil-pump driven by the belt too so it's an extra pulley)

[trdee]

they're all ghey. beleive me. talk to any mechanic and they'll tell you how much they hate working on any celica with an S-series