20V, s##t's broken.. Can't select gears..
#1
Posted 28 February 2010 - 03:18 PM
AE93 Seca
20V
Car won't select any gears,.. If i start it in gear it moves.
Clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor and releases as per normal, But I can't select gears with it running.
Thoughts? Input? Cost?
#2
Posted 28 February 2010 - 04:27 PM
If the pedal feels normal I'd say it's a broken clutch disk, did it happen all of a sudden or overnight while the car wasn't in use?
This post has been edited by 92_GZE: 28 February 2010 - 04:28 PM
#4
Posted 01 March 2010 - 10:40 AM
xjustinx, on Feb 28 2010, 09:53 PM, said:
i can get it into gear when the cars off. and drive it on the starter..
It happened after i was driving.. Friction point went higher than a bit normal. then all of a sudden as i rolled into the driveway with the clutch in...I couldnt choose any gears.
#5
Posted 04 March 2010 - 04:32 PM
benzau, on Mar 1 2010, 11:40 AM, said:
It happened after i was driving.. Friction point went higher than a bit normal. then all of a sudden as i rolled into the driveway with the clutch in...I couldnt choose any gears.
1. Check the clutch fluid resevoir. If its empty fill it up and bleed then they to figure out where the fluid went...
2. Actuate the clutch and get someone else to watch the slave cylinder on the side of the box...
if its moving as per normal its time to pull the box out. If its not moving and or fluid pisses out of it replace the slave cylinder
#6
Posted 09 March 2010 - 03:22 AM
benzau, on Feb 28 2010, 03:18 PM, said:
Clutch doesn't disengage, either broken clutch disk or pressure plate or the clutch fork is cracked & flexing enough that it feels
like it works OK, but doesn't give enough travel.
#7
Posted 05 October 2011 - 09:37 PM
I have the same issue in an ae101 4agze box. Cannot select gears with the engine running but if starting the car in gear it will jump forward. Can select gears fine with car off, can select gears manually from the back of the box, clutch fluid has been changed and bled and no leaks showing. Slave cylinder seems to extend correctly. New gearbox oil. I had the box out recently and the clutch plate and pressure plate appear to be brand new...(believe its an exedy h/d single sports organic) Fly wheel also looked like it had been machined. I put it all back together the way it originally was (it appeard to be correct) but have encounted this problem, sounds very similar to your situation.
Any help would be appreciated, cheers, Liam
#8
Posted 06 October 2011 - 08:52 PM
Easy to do & your symptoms seem to be just that - I've done it ONCE myself - LOL
#9
Posted 06 October 2011 - 10:44 PM
From what I can gather though it seems the clutch plate can only go one way, the centre spline section is longer on one side so it would foul on the fly wheel if put in backwards wouldn't it??? Probably making noise as well with engine running? From memory I thought the longer section faced the gearbox? I think I put it in this way but now I'm not sure... lol
Checked the master cylinder and it seems to be fine but I am only getting about 12mm of travel on the fork from the slave, should this be further?
#10
Posted 06 October 2011 - 10:52 PM
Some of the "nicer" manufacturers these days have "FLYWHEEL" side stamped on the correct side
Sounds like a general FUBAR - Don't worry, I feel your pain !
This post has been edited by Gordo: 06 October 2011 - 10:53 PM
#11
Posted 08 October 2011 - 05:49 AM
82rolla, on 06 October 2011 - 10:44 PM, said:
Most will foul and trying to bolt up the pressure plate when only a thread or two grabs before you need a wrench on them to compress the spring is also a tip off. No, no noise from being jammed between the PP & flywheel, unable to dis-engage. 12mm is plenty.
Pedal feel firm & not much free play?
Happen immediately after being reassembled?
#12
Posted 09 October 2011 - 03:15 AM
Pedal feels a little spongy but not soft. Has acceptable free play. I Blocked off the flex line between master and slave and pedal was rock hard (master cyl is ok) as I said slave only extends 12mm, talking to exedy they told me I should need about 25mm to compress the PP far enough to release... Is this right?
I have only recently acquired the car, it had been sitting for a while and when I got it running while jacked up the wheels would turn in neutral. I then took the box out, checked everything (all looked ok and brand new) cleaned it up and put it back together. Wheels no longer turn over in neutral but I now cannot select any gears with the car running.
Any help is appreciated, got a few days off coming up so will try a few more things... Let me know if you have any ideas... May have to pull the box out again and have another look
#13
Posted 11 October 2011 - 07:38 PM
#14
Posted 20 October 2011 - 11:01 PM
I decided to install a new master and slave cylinder to eliminate the hydraulics as the problem. The master cylinder I installed looked slightly different so don't know if this was part of the problem but it now works. Slave cylinder now extends closer to 25mm after rebleeding. I guess the clutch plate was right after all! One person I talked to said "if the pedal doesn't feel right the problem most likely is hydraulic..."
Thanks for your help and hope that this can assist anyone else in the future, cheers
#15
Posted 23 October 2011 - 01:24 AM

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