[flightcrank]

hello all, i found the following information very useful when test riding bikes that i wanted to buy, some of them were not to good so thanks to this info i have saved alot of $$$$

so here it is for these new forums


Ok general pointers 1 engine, hows it run does it blow smoke, its it blue or black, black smoke ok but needs carbys needs looking at. blue smoke dont touch it. oil leaks and other fuilds, such as wet brake lines, fork seals, shocker unit underseat. fuel leaks from the underside of carbs. Chain and sprocket condition, clean chain or grotty and covered in grit. Crash damage. minor scratches are not to much of a problem, look for consentrated areas of rust, a give away to a bent frame. other than a ride test, does it wander over the road, does it brake ina straight line. does it make noises, ie dry bearing noise. does the steering head feel notchy when turn the bars. Fvck as I said could be here all night. But honestly if ya not sure get some help, it is a big investment to make, only to find ya got burnt. and the wrong investment could cost ya more than it is worth.

^^^info provide by bikechic31au ^^^

asuming you know a bit about cars etc instead of bikes. So along with what the others have said before me (mostly while i was writing this ), check for:

1. REGO, check that the compliance plates match the rego sticker (compliance plates should be on the left side of the frame under the handlebars, turning bars to the right makes the compliance plates vissable) and that the bike is not encumbered or stolen. I dunno about vic but in nsw you can ring REVS and they do it over the phone. Gov service here so its free to check, you just have to buy the certificate if your sus but want the vehicle as it insures you against the bike being repoed by its owner etc.

2. Check that the frame is straight, in that the fairing sits neatly in place and the bike tracks in a straight line when ridden (im asuming you have ya licence). Look at the rear axle b4 riding the bike though to check that the wheel alighnment is not hiding a bigger problem. Their are marks in the rear swingarms above the axle, and a pointer comming off each side of the axle. Check these are in the same spot on each side (or very close to it, no more than 1 maybe 2 mm difference) before checking thebike rides straight. While your doing this check for worn out wheel bearings (at 25,oook's they should be ok) by holding the bike with one hand when on its stand and trying to wobble the back whell, and same for front. Anything more than minute movement (you will feel the bearings click) is a worn out wheel bearing.

3. Listen carefully for any undue noises. The cam chain tensioner is a common problem on japanese 4cyl bikes. While a cheap and easy fix if caught early, it can be expensive if left neglected. This kinda noise will kick in between 5 - 12 thousand rpm. (no thats not a typo, the across has a 16,000 rpm red line ) It is a distinct rattle that changes with the engine revs and sounds like its comming from deep within the bike. Also when moving if their is a distinct clunk from the left hand side when pulling out and changing gears (not dropping the clutch however) the thrust bearing may need looking at.

4. After starting the bike and warming it up with the choke if needed (im melb, most likely gona need the choke to start the bike when cold) shut the bike down. Turn choke off and re start the motor. If it dosent fire up striaght away then their is a tuning problem. (as in within a second or 2 at most)

5. Fairly obvious this one but once the motor is warm give it a rev and check for smoke from the exhaust, and oil/water leaks from the motor/cooling system.

6. Check the brakes feel firm, and check the lines/calipers for leaks. And ask if their is a record of servicing for the bike. Not overly important if their is not, just that will tell you how well the bike has been looked after, as will its general condition, as in is it clean and tidy? Is the back wheel covered in muck, is the chain clean and oiled. things like this.

7. Tyres, check they are not overly worn, as in balding in the middle, or developing cracks in the tred. Cracks in between the tread indicates a perished tyre which can be very dangerous to ride on. If the rest of the bike is good but tyres are stuffed then factor in about $170 a wheel for new tyres fitted n balanced.

8. Check all the basics work properly, throttle dosent stick, lights all work, boot and fuel hatches open properly. Seat is properly secured and their is a key for it. (some bikes use the same key for seat as ignition, some dont. as far as im aware it depends on the bikes age and if the ignition barrell has ever needed to be replaced.)

All these things being ok you should be alright with your purchase. But if you do have to transport the bike and your not licenced either get it delivered or arange to pick it up.

These are all basic checks, thankfully the across is not prone to mechanical failure and is a very reliable machine when propperly maintained. Though the cam chain tension adjuster needs have an eye kept on as the bike aproaches the 30-35k mark. But you will hear it start to go and they are relatively cheap to fix yourself if your mechanically inclined.

Hope this helps.

Greg.


^^^info provided by gerg^^^

later

[flightcrank]

all of that above info is good ! but read this....

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html

as it is really really good !!! a must if your going to buy a bike !

[wisc]

here's a few more I learned about when i sold my bike:
try to get a cold bike to test as it will tell you a lot more about the bike. The best place to check if its been started before hand is to check the oil sump, its the last place to cool down.

1.just after the bike has started so the exhaust isn't to hot stick a finger in the exhaust if your finger gets wet that's not a good sign, either thrashed or not well looked after
2. look for stones in the holes in the discs or cracks as stones flicking into them can damage them and you'll be up for the better part of 500 odd bux to fix them for after market ones on the across... can be a lot more too.
3. and i thought this one was the most interesting, put it in first slowly release the clutch, stop the bike move to second, slowly release the clutch until stall repeat for third gear. if you hear a noise that sounds like a "gatling gun" either the 'big end or small end is gone' and will cost a heap to fix.

James, on some time, said:

Referring to the crank shaft bearings. While stalling will vibrate like crazy if dead/dying and yeah not even worth fixing on most bikes.

one other thing to check is the key barrel, alot of these are worn on the across. and a few of them are cut as people have tried to fix them..

This post has been edited by wisc: 02 July 2006 - 08:20 PM

[duff_boy]

wisc, on Jun 29 2006, 04:27 PM, said:

here's a few more I learned about when i sold my bike:
try to get a cold bike to test as it will tell you a lot more about the bike. The best place to check if its been started before hand is to check the oil sump, its the last place to cool down.

1.just after the bike has started so the exhaust isn't to hot stick a finger in the exhaust if your finger gets wet that's not a good sign, either thrashed or not well looked after
2. look for stones in the holes in the discs or cracks as stones flicking into them can damage them and you'll be up for the better part of 500 odd bux to fix them for after market ones on the across... can be a lot more too.
3. and i thought this one was the most interesting, put it in first slowly release the clutch, stop the bike move to second, slowly release the clutch until stall repeat for third gear. if you hear a noise that sounds like a "gatling gun" either the 'big end or small end is gone' and will cost a heap to fix.



one other thing to check is the key barrel, alot of these are worn on the across. and a few of them are cut as people have tried to fix them..

I realise this is an old thread, but its still relevent to people buying a bike.

1. Thats crap. Chances are you will always get "white smoke" or a wet finger when u first start a bike when its cold. That is water from the condensation built up inside the pipe.
and
3. If you came to inspect my bike and decided to hammer the f##k out of the clutch like that i would be pissed off.